Keeleys, Wright, & Forster Viking River Cruise: Danube, Main, and Rhine : Nuremberg, Germany

Going through numerous locks, today we cruised toward our first "large city", Nuremberg, on the Main-Danube Canal. As we cruised toward Nuremberg, we were treated to a lecture on the European Union by a university historian, Alexander Estel, who came on board and talked about the history, challenges, and chances of the European Union. He explained, with the use of a cartoon, the general feelings people living in Europe have about the EU: euphoria, anger, resignation, optimism, pessimism, and apathy. David took copious notes including:

The notion of the EU really appeared only after WWII. The 2000 years prior to that the focus was on internal strife, domination and warring (conquest) amongst countries, provinces, and districts. There was frustration that after the war two non-European countries dominated Europe (US and Soviet Union). Common rights Europeans now seek are democracy, human rights, and education.

Beginning in 1950 and onward there were baby-steps by the European countries toward a Union. (Treaty of Paris brought together six European countries around coal and steel. In 1960 there was cooperation about tariffs.) Gradually (over the next 40-years) others began to join. In 1995 there were 15 members. Norway and Switzerland (that wanted to maintain its own banking system) are very wealthy and did not see a need to join the Union. Norway is the wealthiest nation in the world often running government surpluses.

Changes beginning in 1992: 1) Introduction of a single market (a common standard); 2) Monetary union of 18 countries – a common currency in 2002 with national backsides on the coins. (Hungry, Denmark, Sweden and UK have their own currency); 3) Political cooperation (common border policy, European parliament, trade policy, etc.; 4) Fall of the Iron curtain in November 1989 (94’ Hungry; 2004 10-more in Eastern Europe; 2007 two more – Romania and Croatia) 500,000,000 people and 28-countries. Combined GNP makes it the largest in the world.5) General feeling now is “all too fast, all too expensive, all too much” (concerns about bureaucracy, 24 official languages in the EU, over regulation, financial crisis, inter-political issues, 28 national armies (expensive to maintain but assures sovereignty).

Strength of the EU is economic cooperation (other things may be a distraction).

The prospect of a war amongst EU nations (as was common for 2000 years) seems minimal. The countries are talking constantly among each other on all issues.

Turkey, Ukraine, and Serbia remain outside the EU (talks ongoing with serious disagreements (e.g., politics, size, location in Europe, economy, religion, etc.)

After lunch we took a bus into the large city of Nuremberg. When you think of Nuremberg, an old 13th century city, you undoubtedly begin your thought process with the trials that occurred here for German war criminals after WWII. During our tours here today, we visited the enormous Congress Hall of the Nazis, which was fashioned after the Coliseum in Rome – but Hitler, a megalomaniac, decided he needed his Congress Hall to be twice as big as the Roman Coliseum. It was never finished and never used! The outside of the building was granite, the inside was supposed to be marble covered bricks – but only the bricks were placed (the granite slabs would go over the bricks). Hitler was planning to use it only once a year! Now it is used as a fire fighter training facility and a symphony hall. Then the Zeppelin Field was used as the propaganda location for thousands of soldiers marching in front of thousands of spectators while Hitler spoke. They even had Nazi sporting events there – gas mask races and hand grenade tosses.

The old city center of Nuremberg was built centuries earlier (13th century) and protected by a wall (3 miles long with 80 defensive towers) surrounding the city; most of the early inhabitants lived in the old city center. The wall was never breached and the city was never invaded. But the bombs of WWII did destroy nearly 96% of the city – all of which was rebuilt so it appears to be as old as it originally was. The Gothic churches’ stained glass windows were buried underground during the war and replaced without any being broken. And the beer cellars under many of the houses in the city functioned as bomb shelters, so that only 1087 people were killed during the bombings.

We visited the Imperial Castle. Below the castle is a lovely half-timbered house, home of the artist, Albrecht Durer. We strolled through the town square where there was an ornate gilt fountain called, Beautiful Fountain (translated from the German) surrounded by an intricate iron fence. Atop the fence a few gold rings were placed. If you could reach up to the top of the fence, you could twirl the ring 3 times while making a wish and your wish would come true. We strolled the city square and bought some lebuchen, the gingerbread that is unique to Nuremberg.

J and Jackie went on the afternoon World War II- Nazi Tour tour. J's impressions: While a dark period for the people of Germany, in retrospect, education is the key to understanding why it happened. The history professor guide talked about the results of treaties- WWI was punitive while WWII was helpful as now we have a stronger Germany (and Japan) today. We saw the Zeppelin Field- site of many Nazi rallies. It was the place where the zeppelin landed...only once! People were so impressed when it landed that is was then called Zeppelin Field. We saw the Nuremberg Courthouse where the famous trials were held in Room 600. We couldn't go in because there was a trial going on in the room. Four countries coordinated the trials- Russia, Great Britain, France, and U.S. Stalin wanted to have a mock trial and execute all, but the U.S. wanted a fair trial. Some were executed, some were jailed for life, and some were exonerated due to a lack of evidence.

After dinner, we were treated to music in the lounge. A trio of musicians from Nuremberg sang pieces from opera, mostly Mozart, while interacting with the audience. The pianist played a Mozart piece he called "the earliest rock and roll"- it rocked! They received a standing ovation from the audience.

Nuremberg's "old city" is surrounded even today by the protective city wall, even though it contains only 10% of the current population.

The Nuremberg city wall includes over 80 towers along its length

A section of the huge, unfinished Congress Hall of the Nazis- built of brick, covered by granite (see stacks of granite slabs on bottom left which were to cover the outside, making it look like a Roman Coliseum.

View of one of the towers on the castle that was the residence of the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire

A residence within the castle complex where the caretakers lived who took care of the castle as Charlemagne only stayed there occasionally.

Good advertising for a lance-maker's wares.

(And a warning to Dragons).

German translation: The Beautiful Fountain

The legend goes that the blacksmith's apprentice asked for his daughter's hand in marriage, but was driven off by his boss. That night, he added a perfect, closed brass ring to the master's fountain; an impossible feat. Too late, the blacksmith learned he'd lost a genius of the trade, and the lad was never seen again. But to this day if you rotate the ring three times, your wish will be granted. Eventually... Sometimes...