Koblenz, Germany

We woke this morning to heavy fog that dampened our spirits. We had very high expectations for the day as we were told this would be the best day to view castles along the Rhine. And as if by magic ,at 10:00 am the fog lifted and we saw over 20 amazing castles perched high above us. There are more operating castles (many are hotels and hostels) and castle ruins on the Middle Rhine than any other river in Europe. When we were not ogling castles we were overwhelmed by the vineyards that that shrouded every hillside. We’ve never seen so many grapes in one place.  What a spectacular afternoon of cruising- castles in the mist, castles and blue skies, camera shutters whirling on the upper sun deck, everyone pointing, binoculars being passed around, so many ooh and aahs!

Today our travels take us to Koblenz and the Marksburg castle high above the town. (It’s just before the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers.) It is one of the principal sites of the UNESCO World Heritage Rhine Gorge. It was built in 1117 and constantly rebuilt/added to throughout its life. It was used to protect the river and support the church’s lucrative customs tariffs. (It also served as a state prison at one point during which all wood furniture was burned to keep them warm.) In WWII the castle was damaged heavily by American artillery fire. (In 1900 it was sold to the German Castle Association for a symbolic price of 1,000 Goldmark.  It is a private initiative to preserve castles in Germany.)

As we entered the castle we saw the six coats of arms for the six families that owned it over its 1000 year history. We were told that there were no steps entering the castle because “war horses did not need steps”. The walls were 3.5 meters thick but despite this it was frightfully cold in the winter. Indeed the only room that was heated was the master bedroom by a heater – stoked from behind the wall by servants. The bed was “tiny” because they slept sitting up. They thought laying down was ‘the position of death’. (The workers slept in the kitchen where they had a hearth that was “large enough it cook an ox”.) The royal toilet was behind the dining room table and perched on a wall overhanging a cliff. It was not uncommon to leave the door open so that royalty could still speak with their guests. We went into the armory and discovered that a knight wore 80 lbs. of armor while the horse was clad in another 40 lbs of protection. Apparently they were so well protected they had difficulty in seeing or moving. The torture chamber had a variety of “fun” implements including the infamous “rack”, the stocks, weights that were attached to your feet while you hung with your arms behind you – very uncomfortable. You promptly confessed even if you did not commit the crime and then were further punished because you confessed.

On our return from the castle we took a high-speed gondola over the Rhine high up to the HUGE Fortress Ehrenbreitstein. (Despite its UNESCO designation they were allowed to build the gondola for some celebrations a few years ago. It remains a popular tourist attraction.) This fortress was much larger than the castle and was exactly at the confluence of the two rivers. It could control movement on the river via its many cannons. A huge green area within its walls allow for growing food if they were under siege. After dinner that evening we strolled the expansive boardwalk with many others and viewed a giant Teutonic knight horse statute that was illuminated making it appear even larger. This statue of Emperor Wilhelm was built to celebrate German unification. (Yep, everything in this town was BIG.)

Passing by numerous hillside vineyards shrouded in the morning fog.

Our first view of castle ruins seen through the morning mist.

 Ready to see some castles!

Gallery of Castle Photos 

 

Remains of a castle wall 

 Gondolas taking groups across the Rhine up to the Fortress

 The huge "horse statue"

The Marksburg Castle - Marksburg is noteworthy because it's the only castle on the middle-Rhine that was never destroyed by invaders (typically the French).  As a result, the rooms and roofs have never been renovated to "modern standards" as hotels and homes like most of the others. 

We've taken the castle!

How would you like to overtake this bastion? View from the top of the castle!

Original wine cellar of the castle- servants came to draw off pitchers of wine

Castle kitchen

"The Marksburg Crapper"- Life was not easy even for noblemen in the 13th century.  Here's the "toilet", essentially an outhouse with the hole hanging out over the moat 35' in the air. It was located immediately adjacent to the formal dining room, so the conversation wouldn't lapse "when nature called."

No elevators in this castle!

 Who is that guy you are partying with?